Sewing-machine



J. E. CHALMAN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 4. 1915.

Patented Dec. 28,1919.

4 SHEETS-SHEET l J. E. CHALMAN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 4. 1915.

1,326,026. Patented Dec. 23,1919.

'4 SHEETS-$HEET 2'.

I 55 J2 J m: 44 a Twi .36% 11 0'2 44 2 86 2.5 24 2 e7 25 w 45 32 O 46 23 z zzx 14 1 1. E. CHALMAN. SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 4. I915.

Patented Dec. 23,-1919.

4 SHEETSSHEET 3- my i J. E. GHALMAN.

SEWING MACHINE,

APPLICATION FILED SEPT; 4, 1915.

Patented Dec. 23,1919.

wherein the feeding mechanism may be snai s r JOHN E. CHALMAN, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR T0 UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A. CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEWINGJVIACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 23, 1919.

Application filed September 4, 1915. Serial No. 49,095.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that. I, JOHN E. CHALMAN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the countyof Cook, State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing and to thefigures of reference marked thereon;

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines and more particularly to a sewing machine having a differential feeding mechanism, the throw of which may be controlled at the will of the operator.

An object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character with means for folding the edge of a fabric and presenting the folded edge only to the action of the differential feed dog, so that a curved edge may be folded and gathered sufficient. y to assume a substantially flat position and stitched in said folded position.

A further object of the invention is to provide a mechanism of the above character, 1 f] just-ed without stopping the stitching mechanism so as to render the differential feed dog ineffective or to move the same in unison with the main feed dog, whereby a fabric edge may be folded and stitched throughout a curved section of the fabric and then folded and stitched throughout a straight section of the fabric.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings,-

Figure 1 is an end view of a sewing machine having my improvements applied thereto;

Fig. 2 is a transverse sectional view through the work support, showing the presser foot and folder in side elevation and also the mechanism for moving the feed dogs back and forth;

Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional view with the work support removed, showing the presser foot, the feeding mechanism and Fig. 5 is a perspective View of the comblned presser foot and folder;

Flg. 6 1s a sectlonal vlew on the hue 6-6 of Fig. 5; i

Fig. 7 is a front view of the folder and presser foot;

Fig. 8 is a bottom plan view of the same; Fig. 9 is a detail, showing more or less diagrammatically the treadle controlling the which is associated with the presser foot, so

as to fold an edge of fabric underneath the body portion of the fabric. This folder is so positioned relative to the feeding mechanism that the auxiliary feed-dog alone acts on the folded edge to feed the same, while the main feed dog acts on both the folded edge and the body fabric.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, my improved machine consists of the supporting bed 1, which carries the usual overhanging arm, in which is mounted a needle bar 2, carrying a needle 3. A presser bar is also mounted in the overhanging arm and carries a presser foot 5. This presser bar may be raised by the usual lever 6, which is adapted to be connected to a knee shift or the like, or by a hand lever 7. A spring 8 operates on the presser bar, and holds the presser foot normally pressed against the work support 9 which is carried by the supporting bed 1.

carried at the outer end of the main shaft 18. The main feed bar 12 is raisedand lowered by a cam 19, mounted on the shaft 18, and engaging the underface of the feed bar. Said main feed bar is provided with the usual bracket arm 20, which also c0 operates with said cam. The auxiliary feed dog 11 is carried by an auxiliary feed bar 21. This auxiliary feed bar 21 is mounted to slide in a suitable bracket 22 fixed to the main feed bar by screws 23. The rear end of the auxiliary feed bar 21 is provided with an upwardly projecting arm 24. A link 25 is pivoted at one end to this arm and the other end of the link is pivoted to a block which is adapted to slide up and down in a segmental slot 26 formed in the bracket 27, which is fixed to the feed rocker 14. The pivotal connection of the link to said. block is indicated at 28. As the feed rocker oscillates, the link 25 will impart the back and forth movements to the auxiliary feed bar. This auxiliary feed bar may move back and forth independently of the main feed bar, but it is moved up and down in unison therewith.

Vlhen the pivotal connection 28 is positioned, as shown in Fig. 3 of the drawings, the auxiliary feed bar will move substantially in unison with the main feed bar, so that the auxiliary feed dog will feed the material substantially at the same rate as the main feed dog. The block to which the link 25 is pivoted may be moved upwardly in the slot 26 and this will increase the throw of the auxiliary feed dog relative to the throw of the main feed dog and thereby cause said auxiliary feed dog to have a. differential feeding movement on the material which it engages. The link 25 is adjusted by a rock shaft 29. This rock shaft carries an arm 30 to which is pivoted a link 32. This link 32 is pivotally connected to the stud carried by the block which moves up and down in the slot 26 and to which the link 25 is also pivoted. By oscillating the shaft 29, it will be apparent, therefore. that the link 32 will shift the pivotal point 28 up and down relative to the bracket 2?. The link 32, however, will permit the bracket 27 to oscillate about the pivot 15 without causing any material shifting of the pivotal point 28.

The rock shaft 29 is mounted in suitable hearings on the supporting bed 1, and an arm 33 is fixed thereto adjacent the rear end thereof. A. suitable flexible member. such as a chain 3% or the like, is connected to the outer end of the arm 33. Said chain at its lower end is connected to a treadle 35, which is pressed upwardly by a spring 36. The rock shaft 29 also carries a stop arm 37, which is adapted to engage suitable stops 38 and 39. The stop 38 is carried by an adjustable block 40 which is held in adjusted positions by a screw il. The stop 39 is carried by a block i2, which is likewise held in adjusted positions by the screw ll. These blocks may be shifted in a slot T3 formed in a bracket 44: carried by one of the bearings for the shaft 29. A. spring 45 surrounding one end of the shaft 29 operates to hold the stop arm in engagement with the stop 38. lVhen the stop arm is in this position, the operating mechanism for the differential feed dog is positioned for causing the auxiliary feed dog to move substantially in unison with the main feed dog. It will be apparent that the auxiliary feed dog may, therefore, be controlled by the operator through the treadle 35, so that said feed dog will either move in unison with the main feed dog or have a differential feeding movement relative thereto. By adjusting the stop 39 the amount of differential feeding movement imparted to the auxiliary feed dog may be varied.

Cooperating with the needle 3 beneath the work support is a looper il-6. This looper is carried by a looper carrier l7 which is pivotally attached to a looper support as. The prcsser foot 5 has a needle opening e9 therethrough and an extension 50, which projects forwardly from the end 51 of the main section of the foot. Mounted on this extension is a folder The folder has a supporting shank 53 which is formed with slots 54 adapted to receive screws 55, which adjustably secure the folder to the extension 50. Said folder has also a supporting plate 56 over which the body of the goods to be folded extends. Said folder also has a folding scroll forming a folding recess 57 which extends above and underneath this supporting plate 56 and operates to fold the edge of the material underneath the body portion thereof previous to the stitching thereof.

In Fi g. 10 of the drawings, I have shown a section of fabric F which is shaped to form a blank adapted to be attachedto a garment, indicated at G, to form a patch pocket. This blank is applied to the outer face of the garment and its edge f folded underneath. The body portion of the blank is led over the support 56 and the edge is folded underneath this support and the folded edge and body portion of the blank are thus dircctedto the stitching mecha nism.

The support 56, as clearly shown in Fig. (5 of the drawings, extends to a point 57 which is just in advance of the main presser foot 5. The under portion of the folder is cut away at 58. so that there is asection 56 of rial betweenthe points'57 and 58, and cooperates with the section 56 of the supporting plate 56. Said section 56 of the support 56 yields slightly to the action of the feed dog; The folded overportion of the blank extends between this section 56 and the auxiliary feed do as above noted.

Said section 56. forms a separating plate and said plate'projects rearwardly beyond the delivery end of the scroll and cooperates with the auxiliary feed dog in athering the folded edge of the fabric. aid plate is also inclined downwardly and normally rests on the throat plate. The rear end of the section 56 engages the gathered fabric so i as to prevent said gathered portion frombeing returned to its naturalflat position during the back stroke of the auxiliary feed dog. It will thus be apparentthat the folded edge of the fabric is subjected to the auxiliary feed dog only in front of the needle and this auxiliary feed dog does not engage the body portion of the fabric; while in rear of the needle, both the folded edge and the body portion of the fabric are under the influence .of the main feed dog. If the auxiliary feed dog be moved faster than the main feed dog, thenthe folded edge of the fabric willbe fed faster in front of theneedle than it is fed in rear of the needle and this will result in the gathering of the edge. When stitching around a curve and turning in said curved edge,,it will be apparent that the turned in curved edge must be gathered in order that i the body fabric will lie'flat. Theauxiliary feed dog when given a difierential movement accomplishes thisresult. Therefore, a

. blank for a patch pocket, such as shown in Fig. 1.0, may be readily stitched by my improved machine. Starting at the point x, the edge is turned in and stitched and the auxiliary feed dog is at this time, operating in unison with the main feed dog, so that there is no gathering of the folded edge. As

soon as the point y is reached, where the blank begins to curve, the operator without stepping the stitching mechanisnnyaries the. throw of the auxiliary feed dog, so that it is given a differential movement relative to the main feed dog and then the turned in edge will be gathered so as to lie flat and maybe stitched by a line ofstitches indicated at s.

From the point y to the point a, the auxiliary. feed dog continues its differential feeding or 'wliereit is desired to stitch continuously curved sections, folding inthe edges of said curved fabric sectlons.

It is also obvious that minor changes in the (lGtEtllS of constructlon' and arrangement of parts may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention asset forth in the appended claims;

aving thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure byLetters Patent, is

and a feeding mechanism comprising a mam feed dog engaging the fabric in rear of the needle, an auxiliary feed dog engaging the folded edge only of the fabric in advance of theneedle, meansfor separating the folded edge of the fabric from the body fabric in the region of action of the auxiliary feed dog, means for operating said main feed dog, and'me'ans whereby said auxiliary feed dog may be moved either in unison with or given a differential feeding movement relative to feeding movements of said main feed dog.

2. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, stitching mechanism including aneedle, a folder for folding an edge of fabric in advance of the needle, and

feeding mechanism coinprising a main feed dog engaging the fabric in rear of the needle, an auxillary feed dog engaging the folded edge only of the fabricin advance of the needle, means for separating the folded edge of the fabric from the body fabric in the region of actionof theauxiliary feed dog, means for operating said main feed dog,- means whereby said auxiliary feed dog may be moved either in unison with or given a differential feeding movement relative to the :feeding movements of the feed dog, and

means whereby the operator without stopping the stitching mechanism may cause said auxiliary feed dog to nove in unison with the main feed dog. or have a differential movement relative thereto.

y 3. A sewing machine including in combination, a worksupport, stitching mechanism including a needle, a=folder for folding an edge of fabricinadvance of the needle and a feeding mechanism comprising-a main feed dog engagin the fabric in rear of the needle,

an auxiliary feed dog engaging the fabric in advance of the needle, means for separating the folded edge of the fabric from the body fabric in the region of action of the auxiliary feed dog, means for operating said main feed dog and means for actuating said auxiliary feed dog, said last named means in: cluding devices whereby said auxiliary feed dog may be moved in unison with the main feed dog or given a differential movement relative thereto,

i. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, stitching mechanism includinga needle, a folder for folding an edge of fabric in advance of the needle, and a feeding mechanlsm comprlsing a main feed dog engaging the fabric 1n rear of the needle, an auxiliary feed dog endifferential movement relative thereto, and

means whereby the operator may cause said auxiliary feed dog to move in unison with the main feed dog or have a differential feeding movement relative thereto without stopping the stitching mechanism.

A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, stitching mechanism including a needle, a folder for folding an edge of fabric in advance of the needle and a feedingmechanism comprising a main feed dog engaging the fabric in rear of the needle, an auxiliary feed dog engaging the fabric in advance of the needle, means for separating the folded edge of the material from the body fabric in the region of action of the auxiliary feed dog, means for operating said main feed dog, means for actuating said auxiliary feed dog, said last named means including devices whereby said auxiliary feed dog may be moved in unison with the main feed dog or given a differential movement relative thereto, and a spring for normally causing said auxiliary feed dog to move in unison with the main feed dog.

6. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, stitching mechanism including a needle, a folder for folding an edge of fabric in advance of the needle and a feeding mechanism comprising a main feed dog engaging the fabric in rear of the needle, an auxiliary feed dog engaging the fabric in advance of the needle, means for separating the folded edge of the material from the body fabric in the region of action of the auxiliary feed dog, means for operating said main feed dog, means for actuating said auxiliary feed dog, said last named means including devices whereby said auxiliary feed dog may be moved in throw of the auxiliary feed dog relative to the main feed dog. 7 r

7 A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, stitching mechanism including a needle, a folder for folding an edge of fabric in advance of the needle and, a feeding mechanism comprising a main feed dog engaging the fabric in rear of the needle, an auxiliary feed dog engaging the fabric in advance of the needle, means for separating the folded edge of the fabric from the body fabric in the region of action of the auxiliary feed dog, means for operating said main feed dog, means for actuating said auxiliary feed dog, said last named means including devices whereby said auxiliary feed dog may be moved in "unison with the main feed dog or given a differential movement relative thereto, a spring for causing said auxiliary feed dog to move in unison with'the main feed dog, a stop for determining the throw of the auxiliary feed dog relative to the main feed dog, and devices whereby the operator without stopping the stitching mechanism may cause said auxiliary feed dog to move in unison with the main feed dog or have a differential feeding movement relative thereto.

S. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, a stitching mechanism including a needle, a folder including a separating plate and a cooperating scroll for folding the edge of a fabric around and under said plate, said plate extending rearwardly from the delivery end of said scroll, and a feeding mechanism comprising a main feed dog engaging the fabric in rear of the needle, an auxiliary feed dog operating in advance of the needle and cooperating with the separating plate in rear of said scroll to feed and ruffle said folded edge of fabric, and means for actuating said auxiliary feed dog including devices for regulating the feeding movements thereof relative to the feeding movements of the main feed dog.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

JOHN E. CHALMAN.

Witnesses:

S. GEORGE TATE, A. F. BREDSHALL. 

